The whiff of warming spices combined with the scent from a freshly baked malt loaf, figs in armagnac syrup and thick-cut Seville orange marmalade made this a welcoming proposition. The palate was like a three-course meal: a platter of jamon with green olives, followed by duck à l’orange and, in the finish, a slice of plum and marzipan tarte tatin.