Initially elusive, the nose suggested grassy notes or new pencils in a tin box – then more character emerged, with jam tarts, caramel wafers and rum-flambéed banana with brown sugar and cinnamon. On the palate, we found cherry jam, red liquorice, crème brûlée and a strident streak of apple strudel; the finish warmed us pleasantly with chilli chocolate, candied citrus peel and lemon pepper.