Things opened with a classic nose – dying beach bonfires, sweet smoke, ash, a sea breeze and maybe potatoes in the embers – with additional hints of toffee, vanilla, green apple and orange boxes. We found quite a bit of fruit on the palate, including stewed apples and rhubarb, pineapple chunks, pear, and the burnt edge of fruit cake, plus toasted coconut, roasted nuts and maple syrup on a charred stave.