Classic C-Town funk on the nose; tinkering under the bonnet of an old car, green olives in brine, pears and chocolate candies – all with the sea close by. The palate was coastal, smoky and sweet – peat fire-grilled prawns, seaweed, caramel-glazed toasted almonds, aniseed gobstoppers, torrone and oily rags – and quite muscular in its intensity.