Tart fruits tantalised our noses – gooseberry fool, lemon drops, waxed orange, redcurrant jam, marshmallow twists and popping candy – with traces of pink peppercorns and pencils; generally clean and attractive. The palate enjoyed blackcurrant fruit pastilles, lime marmalade and fruits of the forest, but was far from one dimensional – we also tasted honeysuckle, sweet birch sap, custard bao buns and ginger.