The nose – well, ‘two roads diverged in a yellow wood’ – chocolate Swiss roll, Demerara, parma violets and cherries with crème anglaise to the left – and bran flakes, wicker baskets, mahogany wood and Imperial Leather soap to the right. On the palate, the left road was bourbon biscuits, fudge, sherbet lemons and plum sauce; turn right for chewing twigs, star anise and Fisherman’s Friends.