Limited to 2 bottles per member Passing heathery hillsides and hedgerows, we entered a hut with an unlit wood-burning stove; settling down with lemon barley water, melon and acid drops* we lit the fire. Then we tasted fragrant wood-smoke, sap, resin and ash, chewed sultanas and lemon peel, moved our wellies away from the stove and enjoyed the warm finish of pickled ginger, chilli and wasabi.