The nose suggested muddy leather boots, Brasso cloths, smoked sea salt and incense – then we were walking on old railway sleepers laid over shale through a eucalyptus forest. The palate was medicinal (Vicks VapoRub, Buckley’s cough medicine) but also had pickles, salted crackers, wood embers, Elastoplast, liquorice imps, black tea leaves, tar, coal smoke and chimney scrapings.