What a nose – wool socks drying by the fire and rally driver’s gloves, a shovelful of flinty gravel, gooseberry bush, dirty martini, hickory smoke and Lapsang Souchong. The unreduced palate had a sour-ish tang of sorrel, dark cherries and cranberry juice, smoked fish with vinegar, boiled sweets in an ashtray; then a finish of liquorice, chilli flakes and cigar smoke.