Nosing it, the smoke is not huge – but evokes a range of associations – doctor’s bag, salt-grilled prawns, toasted hazelnuts and coconut, wood shavings, coal cellars, and wintergreen. On the palate, however, the smoke is big – beach barbeque, ships timbers, menthol vapour rub, marmalade on burnt toast, embers, ash and something between root beer and ginger beer.