Islay The nose had smoke, tar and seaweed harmoniously melded with toffee popcorn and parma violets, plus unmistakable burgers and lemon scallops sizzling on a beach barbeque (wetsuits and fish boxes nearby). The palate was deeply satisfying and full of personality – wood embers, ash, burnt lavender, liquorice and smoked fish and tarry ropes on a wooden boat.