Islay The air was heavy with the sweet seductive smell from stepping out of the sultry summer sun into the cathedral like warehouse of a sherry bodegas in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Aromas of hessian sacks and coconut husk next to cinder toffee and dark butterscotch mingled with a whiff of fresh sardines being roasted in the salt sea air from the nearby beach – irresistibly tantalizing.