We got delicate smoke and fruit on the nose (brambles, strawberry, blackcurrant jam) – standing by a driftwood bonfire on a rocky island shore while chewing Maoams. Tasting it removed any illusion of delicacy – intense smoke (fishing nets on that bonfire) and shovel-fulls of cigar ash – but intriguing acidic sweetness (reminiscent of Moffat toffees, mince-meat pies or balsamic glaze) brought satisfying sapidity to the smoke.