A totally intriguing nose – gentle, incense-like, perfumed smoke, herbs (rosemary, thyme) cast on a barbeque, salt-encrusted sails and the freshness of mint and laundries. The palate – amazingly complex – dry, salty and smoky (though not very smoky) – with driftwood and balsa wood models, Plasticine, herbs (again) and lemon squeezed over deep-fried boquerones.