‘Gentle’ and ‘Mellow’ whispered our panellists, sniffing mango, peach and honeydew melon, lemon puffs, fruit-cake, vanilla sponge and banana bread; sherry and dried apricots gave cask clues. The palate was tasty, warming and complex – caramel wafer, muscovado, walnut cake and dark chocolate soufflé against charcuterie, woody tannins and burnt paper.