The nose is attractively optimistic – spring meadows, vanilla, custard creams, beeswax – imagine enjoying a fancy sundae in an ice-cream parlour (maybe on new wood tables). Sweet fruitiness hits the palate – marshmallow, meringue, rum baba, dried apple, papaya and pineapple – but it has to arm-wrestle with mouth-flooding heat – fresh pineapple sprinkled with salt and chilli; liquorice and aniseed on the finish.