Our noses were twitched and bewitched – Kir Royale and beeswax candles on an antique writing desk, grape-flavoured sherbet crystals and Demerara-sprinkled rhubarb crumble with custard. The palate was old and delightful, yet firm (like a good Panel chair) – dark chocolate, toffee and date sweetness; sharp fruits (grapefruit, lemon, lime, cherry pie) and pickled ginger, turmeric and cardamom warmth.