The nose evoked honeysuckle, gorse, lemon thyme and wild flowers in a sunny meadow – spring in a glass; as a bonus we got peach, plum, cherry and honey drizzled over pineapple. The palate had controlled, muscular liveliness – a ballet dancer, not a whirling Dervish – juicy, fruitful flavours of kirsch, lemon Pana cotta, green apple and orange oil.