Speyside, Spey The nose awakened slowly, firstly to wood sap, star-fruit, lily flowers and toffee apples – then we were opening the tea caddy in anticipation of plum pie coming out of the oven. Nothing shy about the flavour, which was sweet and tart – apple turnovers with crème anglaise, gooseberry, blackberry, lemon curd and lime marmalade on toast; the finish combined cinnamon, chilli, hemp and hay.