We found engaging toffee, brown sugar, banana split and vanilla sponge sweetness on the nose – and something of the earth (eucalyptus forest floor?); then it brightened up – ginger snaps, pineapple and fruit salad chews. The palate was a two-way street, with toffee, honey Lockets and Ricicles sweetening up one carriageway, while the other had tingling clove spice, stewed rhubarb with ginger and oaky tannins, which left a warm glow on the finish.