The nose took us to the sea-shore – remnants of a driftwood bonfire (charcoal, ash) and lobster pots by the harbour wall – we also got a feast of salt and pepper squid and a seaweed-decorated fruits de mer platter on a plastic table. The palate, full-flavoured, feisty and frisky, had a splendid sweet and smoky synthesis, with hints of citrus and shellfish, Pontefract cakes, tobacco snuff and euthymol.