Our noses twitched at the peat smoke, white pepper, Sudocrem and muscle rub, before discovering a green tapestry of smoky stewed spinach, moss on a dyke, seaweed sorbet, olives in brine and bread dipped in moules marinieres liquor. The palate was equally smoky, but somehow cleaner, even elegant – poached pears, oysters, pickled cucumber, sea-salt sherbet, thyme, samphire and smoked mackerel.