Whatever it sounds like, the nose was actually very attractive – we identified puff candy, maple syrup, honey and rum and raisin – but also oak shavings, salted liquorice and something of a trawler’s engine room. The palate achieved a fine balance of deep, sweet and acceptably grubby – salted caramel fudge, clover honey, muscovado on pear, oily rags and mussels cooked with chilli.