The nose had spun sugar, vanilla slice, preserved plums, Morello cherries, crème de cassis, red wine lees and Barolo Chinato, also some earthy notes – half-smoked cigar, forest floor, leather. The palate conveyed dark sweetness – maple candy, overdone donut, baklava, cherry cake, etc. – but still that earthy, almost mysterious element – charred blackcurrant twigs, New York hot-dogs, oily wood and olive skins.