From farm brewery to distillery
The building dated from 1738 and had been a brewery known for its ale.6,8 Matheson was a farmer who learned distilling at Balblair; one account calls him a former manager there, another a partner.
Glenmorangie dates its start to 1843, when William Matheson turned the Morangie brewery in Tain into a distillery; a later heritage survey puts the conversion in 1849.1,2,3 Its stills are the tallest in Scotland.3,4,5 Moët Hennessy has owned it since 2004.4,6,7
The building dated from 1738 and had been a brewery known for its ale.6,8 Matheson was a farmer who learned distilling at Balblair; one account calls him a former manager there, another a partner.
A lovely, distinctive bottling: buttery and fruity on the nose, pleasantly wine-led on the palate, with a welcome apricot finish.
Floral and honeyed, this is genuinely subtle and rather magnificent, with citrus cakes, meadow honey, herbal teas and a touch of cinnamon.
In his 1887 book, Alfred Barnard called it the most ancient and primitive distillery he had seen, almost in ruins and fired only by peat.2,8 That year the Glenmorangie Distillery Company took over, with Duncan Cameron and the Maitlands among its owners.2,4,8 Accounts of the sale differ: one says Ann Matheson sold to businessmen, while a later heritage survey says Matheson, the founder, formed the firm with Cameron and Andrew Maitland.2,4,8 It was rebuilt to designs by James Maitland from 1888, and production had resumed by 1890.2,5,8 The new plant had two tall steam-heated stills and shell-and-tube condensers instead of worm tubs, chosen to give the spirit more contact with copper.2,5,8 Andrew Maitland died suddenly in 1899, and the business appears to have gone into decline.2 There are signs that upkeep slipped after 1900, and the firm was in financial difficulties before war broke out in 1914.2
After standing silent for part of the First World War, it was bought in 1918 by Leith firm Macdonald & Muir with Durham & Co.2,4,6 Macdonald & Muir used the whisky in blends such as Highland Queen; accounts differ on whether it took full control soon after or in the late 1930s.2,4,6 Gordon L Smart became distillery manager in 1920 after his father Alexander and held the job for fifty years, leading a core team called the 16 Men of Tain.1 It was effectively mothballed from 1931 to 1936, years when Prohibition and the Great Depression in the United States cut whisky sales.6 It was mothballed again from 1941 to 1944, when the war left fuel and barley in short supply.6 By 1948 it was running at full capacity.6 In 1959, urged by David Macdonald, the owners began bottling Glenmorangie as a single malt again.4,8
Historic Environment Scotland says the stills went from two to four in 1980; other accounts say 1976 or 1977.2,4,6 The malt barns could not keep up, so in 1980 floor malting, making malt on site, stopped and all malt was bought in from central maltings.2 In 1990 the stills doubled to eight in a new still house, which one account says was a converted three-storey warehouse.2,4,6 Bill Lumsden joined as distillery manager in 1995 and went on to lead the work on wood finishing.8,9 Finishing means moving a mature whisky into a different type of cask for a further spell of ageing.8,9 In 1996 the owner, Macdonald & Muir, changed its name to Glenmorangie.7 In 2002 two more washbacks, the vessels where fermentation happens, were added, taking the total to eight.6,10
In 2004 the Macdonald family sold its 52% stake, and the firm passed to Moët Hennessy.4,6,7 In 2009 four more stills, extra washbacks and a larger mash tun were added, bringing the total to twelve stills.4,6,11 In September 2021 The Lighthouse opened on the same site, a 20-metre glass still house built for experiments rather than yield.11,12 Its two stills can be set to behave as if they are taller or shorter, to change the spirit's character.11,12
Its water comes from the Tarlogie Springs and is hard, which Historic Environment Scotland says only 2 Scottish distilleries use.2,4,6 Whiskypedia calls the barley unpeated and the malt a maximum of 2ppm (parts per million), while Bill Lumsden calls it lightly peated.4,12 It has 16 washbacks, made of stainless steel.4,8 Brendan McCarron of Glenmorangie gives fermentation as 55 hours, while Whiskypedia gives 52 hours.4,8 The main still house has 6 wash stills for the first distillation and 6 spirit stills for the second.4,6,12 Steam kettles and coils heat the stills.
Every bottle in Peated with a vintage year.
Bottles in Peated distilled at Glenmorangie, by release year.
| Year distilled | Bottles |
|---|---|
| 1993 | 1 |
| 2004 | 1 |
| 2008 | 1 |
| 2010 | 1 |
| 2011 | 2 |
| 2014 | 6 |
| 2016 | 2 |
| 2017 | 2 |
| 2018 | 3 |
| 2019 | 4 |
| 2020 | 2 |
| 2021 | 5 |
| 2022 | 1 |
| 2023 | 3 |
| 2024 | 5 |
| 2026 | 2 |
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