A sophisticated nose – freesias, carnations and gorse; damson, lemon peel, pineapple and mango chutney – then brown sugar, coconut panna cotta, honey nut cornflakes and marshmallows, with faint shadows of shaved oak. The palate was perfumed and sweet – pink Edinburgh rock, raspberry ripple ice-cream – but its cereal DNA also came through – straw, porridge and cereal bars.